How To Identify Sewing Machine Needle Size
Selecting the right sewing machine needle for your project is crucial for getting optimal results. The needle size and type directly impact the quality of stitching, how the fabric is pierced, and the overall durability.
This guide will teach you how to identify sewing machine needle sizes and types so you can choose the perfect needle every time.
Overview of Sewing Machine Needles
A sewing machine needle is comprised of several parts that allow it to puncture fabric and guide thread to form stitches. The key components are:
- Butt – Top end that attaches to needle bar
- Shank – Thickest section just below butt
- Shoulder – Where shank meets shaft
- Shaft/Blade – Main body of needle
- Groove – Channel that guides thread
- Scarf – Indentation near eye for hook
- Eye – Hole for inserting thread
- Point – Sharp tip that penetrates fabric
The needle size, type, and quality directly impact the resulting stitches. Using the wrong needle can damage fabric, cause skipped stitches, and lead to frustrating sewing.
Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
Sewing machine needle sizes refer to the diameter of the shaft or blade. The sizing scales differ between American and European standards:
American Needle Sizes
American needle sizes range from 8 to 19. The lower the number, the finer the needle.
- 8 – Very fine needle for lightweight fabrics
- 10-12 – Light/medium needles for most fabrics
- 14-16 – Medium needles for midweight fabrics
- 18-19 – Large heavy duty needles for thick fabrics
European Needle Sizes
European needles range from 60 to 120. Again, the lower numbers are for lightweight fabrics.
- 60-70 – Very fine needles for sheer fabrics
- 75-90 – Light/medium needles for most fabrics
- 100-110 – Heavy duty needles for thick fabrics
- 120 – Very thick needle for heavy materials
Reading Needle Size Markings
Needle packages often list both American and European sizes, with the European size listed first followed by the American size.
For example:
- 70/10 – Light needle for light fabrics
- 90/14 – Medium needle for midweight fabrics
- 110/18 – Heavy needle for thick fabrics
How to Choose Sewing Machine Needle Size
The general rule of thumb is to match the needle size to the weight and density of your fabric. Lightweight fabrics require a finer needle, while heavy fabrics need a thicker needle. Consider these guidelines:
| Fabric Weight | Example Fabrics | Recommended Needle Size |
|---|---|---|
| Sheer | Chiffon, organza, gauze | 60/8 to 70/10 |
| Lightweight | Cotton, voile, satin, taffeta | 70/10 to 80/12 |
| Medium weight | Quilting cotton, broadcloth, flannel | 80/12 to 90/14 |
| Heavy weight | Denim, canvas, tweed | 90/14 to 100/16 |
| Very heavy weight | Leather, vinyl | 100/16 to 120/19 |
You should also match the needle size to the thread weight and fiber content. Finer lightweight thread requires a smaller needle. Heavier thicker thread needs a larger needle.
Use a slightly larger needle (one size up) for synthetic fabrics, which abrade needles faster.
Change your needle at least once per sewing project or after around 8 hours of sewing. Damaged needles can shred fabric, skip stitches, and create snags.
Sewing Machine Needle Types
In addition to getting the size right, you need to select the needle type designed for your fabric and task. Common sewing machine needle types include:
1. Universal
Universal needles have a slightly rounded tip and work well for most woven and knit fabrics. They are an excellent all-purpose choice when you’re unsure what needle to use.
2. Ballpoint
Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip to separate the fibers of knit fabrics rather than piercing them. This prevents damage when sewing stretchy fabrics.
3. Stretch
Stretch needles are similar to ballpoint but have a more acute point and scarf. They work well on super stretchy fabrics.
4. Sharp
Sharp needles have an acute point to pierce woven fabrics with dense threads. They are great for delicate fabrics like silk.
5. Denim/Jeans
Denim needles have an extra strong shaft and very sharp point to penetrate layers of denim and canvas without deflecting.
6. Leather
Leather needles have a wedge shape to cut through leather and synthetic leather fabrics. Never use them on wovens or knits.
7. Embroidery
Embroidery needles have a subtle ballpoint, large eye, and special scarf to protect embroidery threads. Use them with polyester, rayon, and cotton embroidery threads.
8. Metallic
Metallic needles have a polished, elongated eye to prevent shredding when sewing with delicate metallic threads.
9. Twin/Double
Twin or double needles have two needles attached to a single shaft to sew two parallel rows of stitching.
10. Quilting
Quilting needles have a tapered point optimized for piecing fabric and quilting through thicker layers.
Using the Right Needle Size for Thread Weight
Matching your needle size to the thread weight/thickness is also very important for reducing breakage and skipped stitches. Follow these guidelines:
| Thread Weight | Example Uses | Recommended Needle Size |
|---|---|---|
| 60-80 | Light-duty sewing, silk | 60/8 to 70/10 |
| 50-40 | Piecing quilts, apparel | 70/10 to 80/12 |
| 30-20 | Decorative stitching, topstitching | 80/12 to 90/14 |
| 12-10 | Hand embroidery, hardanger | 90/14 to 100/16 |
Heavier threads need larger needle eyes to pass through smoothly. Conversely, lightweight delicate threads require smaller needles.
Checking if Your Needle Size is Correct
How can you tell if you’ve selected the optimal needle size? Signs you may need to change needle size include:
- Fabric damage like runs in knits
- Skipped stitches
- Thread shredding or breakage
- Breaking needles
- Big holes in fabric
- Puckered seams
- Loose/uneven stitches
Doing a few test stitches on a fabric scrap can help you determine if your needle choice is correct before starting on your actual project.
Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart
Here is a handy sewing machine needle size chart summarizing the key sizes along with fabric weights and thread sizes they work well with:
| Needle Size | Fabric Weight | Thread Size |
|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Sheer, chiffon, georgette | Silk 60-100 |
| 70/10 | Lightweight, voile, crepe, jersey | 50-80 |
| 80/12 | Medium weight, broadcloth, flannel, satin | 40-50 |
| 90/14 | Heavy cotton, denim, tweed | 30-40 |
| 100/16 | Canvas, denim, wool, upholstery | 20-30 |
| 110/18 | Leather, vinyl, heavy denim | 10-20 |
Print out this handy reference to keep by your sewing station when choosing needles!
Frequently Asked Questions
Are all sewing machine needles the same?
No, sewing machine needles come in many different sizes and types. You need to select the size and style designed for your fabric, thread, and task.
How often should you change the needle?
Change your sewing machine needle at least once per project or after around 8 hours of sewing. Replace needles immediately if they are bent, dull, or damaged.
What size needle do I need for cotton fabric?
For medium weight cotton wovens like quilting cotton, a size 80/12 or 90/14 will work well. Lightweight cottons may require 70/10, while heavy canvas needs a 100/16.
What needle for embroidery?
Use embroidery needles which have a subtle ballpoint tip, large eye, and specially shaped scarf. Sizes 75/11 or 90/14 work well for most machine embroidery.
Can you use a universal needle on all fabrics?
While universal needles will work OK for many fabrics, you’ll get better results using a needle specifically designed for knits, delicates, denim, leather, etc.
What if my thread keeps breaking?
Thread breakage can be caused by a needle that is too small for the thread. Try going up a needle size to accommodate thicker thread.
Read: How To Release Clutch On A Sewing Machine – A Comprehensive Guide
Get Sewing with the Right Needles!
Now that you know how to identify sewing machine needle sizes and types, you can confidently choose the perfect needle for any sewing project. Refer to this guide anytime you start a new project or run into stitching issues. Investing a few minutes to change out your needle will prevent headaches and make your sewing experience so much better!