How to Bar Tack on a Sewing Machine: A Complete Guide
Bar tacking is an essential sewing technique that every sewer should have in their toolkit. Bar tacks are a series of closely spaced zigzag stitches that reinforce areas of high stress and strain on garments. They help strengthen vulnerable spots so your clothes last longer.
In this comprehensive guide, you’ll learn what bar tacking is, why it’s important, and step-by-step instructions for bar tacking on a sewing machine.
What is a Bar Tack?
A bar tack is a series of very dense, closely packed zigzag stitches that form a bar-shaped reinforcement. Bar tacks are usually between 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide and 1/4 to 3/8 inch long.
They reinforce areas on garments that experience high stress like:
- Corners of pockets
- Waistband corners
- Belt loops
- Buttonholes
- Zipper ends
- Fly openings
The closely stitched zigzags overlap each other to create a strong, durable seam that distributes tension. This prevents holes, tears, and seam breakage.
Here’s an example of bar tacking on jean pocket corners:
Why Use Bar Tacks?
Bar tacks are important for reinforcing and strengthening seams in high-stress areas. They make garments more durable and long-lasting.
Without bar tacks, seams are more likely to tear from frequent stretching and friction. For example, jeans pockets would quickly rip without bar tacks reinforcing the corners.
Other key benefits of bar tacking include:
- Prevents seam damage and tearing in areas under tension
- Strengthens vulnerable fabric areas like pocket openings
- More durable alternative to backstitching
- Creates flexible seams that can handle movement
- Great for outerwear and accessories that need extra reinforcements
How to Sew Bar Tacks on a Sewing Machine
Bar tacking is easy to do on most standard sewing machines. All you need is the ability to sew a tight zigzag stitch.
Follow these steps to sew bar tacks:
1. Set Up Your Sewing Machine
- Stitch length: Set stitch length between 0.3mm to 0.5mm
- Stitch width: Set stitch width between 2mm to 3mm
- Thread tension: Reduce thread tension slightly
Tip: Always test your settings on a fabric scrap first and adjust as needed.
2. Position the Fabric
- Place the fabric under the presser foot
- Lower the presser foot
- Make sure the area you want to bar tack is positioned to sew
3. Sew the Bar Tack
- Sew a few stitches forward
- Sew a few stitches in reverse to backstitch
- Continue sewing forward and backward to build density
- Sew for your desired bar tack length (usually 1/4″ to 3/8″)
Pro tip: Avoid sewing too many passes back and forth as this can cause skipped stitches and a distorted look.
4. Finish the Bar Tack
- Sew a few stitches forward
- Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric
- Clip connecting threads
And you’re done! Examine the bar tack to make sure it’s dense with no gaps.
Bar Tack Tips and Tricks
Follow these tips for beautiful bar tacks every time:
- Always test stitch settings on scrap fabric
- Use thicker, stronger needles for heavy fabrics
- Place scrap fabric or cardboard under presser foot when sewing over thick seams
- Sew slowly and carefully over bulky layers
- Adjust thread tension so stitches are flat and even
- Make bar tack length suited for location (1/4″ for pockets, 3/8″ for belt loops)
- Use zigzag presser feet for best results
Troubleshooting Bar Tacking
Having trouble getting perfect bar tacks? Here are some common issues and fixes:
Problem: Skipped stitches
Solution: Increase thread tension slightly
Problem: Distorted look
Solution: Avoid too many back and forth passes
Problem: Uneven stitches
Solution: Adjust presser foot pressure for fabric thickness
Problem: Thread breaks
Solution: Use stronger thread and check for fabric snags
Problem: Bar tack won’t sew through layers
Solution: Use thicker needle and reduce presser foot pressure
Alternatives to Bar Tacking
If your sewing machine can’t handle bar tacking, here are a few alternatives:
- Zigzag stitch – Use a dense zigzag stitch over the seam allowance. Won’t be as strong as a bartack but can help reinforce.
- Multiple rows of straight stitch – Sew several rows of straight stitch back and forth over the seam allowance.
- Hand sewing – Sew a dense box stitch over the stress point using strong thread. Takes more time but gets the job done!
When to Use Bar Tacking
Bar tacks are best for areas that will endure frequent tension and pulling. Always reinforce these garment spots with bar tacks:
- Pocket corners
- Waistbands
- Crotch seams
- Buttonholes
- Backpack strap attachments
- Belt loop corners
- Zipper ends
They can go on any high-stress seam that needs fortifying.
How to Remove Bar Tacks
To remove bar tacking, carefully clip the bartack threads without cutting the fabric. Then, use a seam ripper to gently pull out the tiny zigzag stitches starting at the bottom and working upwards.
Go slowly to avoid damaging the fabric. Once all stitches are removed, the bar tack will be gone!
Bar Tack Stitch Options
Many computerized sewing machines come with built-in bar tack stitch settings. These offer versatility for different bar tack shapes, sizes, and visual styles.
Here are some common bar tack stitch options:
- Zigzag bar tack – Basic zigzag bartack in various widths and lengths
- Decorative bar tack – Zigzag bartack with decorative stitches
- Rectangular bar tack – Box shaped bartack for wider reinforcement
- Circular bar tack – Round bar tack for buttonholes and ends of straps
- Multi-point bar tack – Zigzag bartack with triangle reinforcements
- Double bar tack – Two parallel zigzag bartacks for extra strength
Experiment with the settings on your machine to create all kinds of unique bar tack effects!
How to Use a Bar Tack Sewing Machine
Industrial bar tack sewing machines are designed specifically for bartacking seams. They allow sewing heavy-duty bar tacks much faster than regular machines.
Here’s an overview of how bar tack machines work:
- Fabric is positioned under the presser foot
- Machine sews straight stitches perpendicular to fabric edge
- Stitches zigzag back and forth over the straight stitches to build density
- Process is repeated rapidly to create a professional-quality bartack
Watching a bar tack machine in action is quite fascinating! The precision and speed allows mass production of durable, reinforced seams.
Bartack Stitch vs Box Stitch
The box stitch is another popular reinforcement technique. So what’s the difference between bar tacks and box stitches?
Bar tack
- Small, dense zigzag stitch
- Reinforces a small, focused area
- Creates concentrated strength
- Quick to sew
- Can damage fabric if overdone
Box stitch
- Straight stitches sewn in a square or X shape
- Reinforces over a wider area
- Distributes tension broadly
- Takes more time to sew
- Less risk of fabric damage
In most cases, bar tacks and box stitches can be used interchangeably. Choose whichever best fits the project. Bar tacks work well when space is limited, while box stitches are great for distributing strain over seams.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the best stitch length for bar tacks?
Aim for a stitch length between 0.3mm to 0.5mm. Always test on scrap fabric first.
Where should I use bar tacks on jeans?
Use bar tacks on the corners of back pockets, belt loops, crotch seams, and along the fly opening.
Can I sew bar tacks without a zigzag stitch?
Yes, you can sew straight stitches back and forth in short rows to mimic bartacks. It won’t be quite as strong but can work in a pinch.
What thread is best for bar tacks?
Use a stronger thread like polyester, topstitching, or heavy duty thread. Avoid lightweight thread which could snap.
How do I make my bartacks look professional?
Consistent stitch length, proper thread tension, new needle, and zigzag presser foot will help bartacks look neat and sleek.
Take Your Sewing Skills to the Next Level with Bar Tacking
As you can see, bar tacking is an easy yet invaluable technique for making durable, reinforced seams. It takes garment sewing to the next level.
With the stitches above, you can start bar tacking on your home sewing machine like a pro. Strengthen vulnerable spots on your makes so they last for years of wear.
Bar tack all the high-stress areas on your next sewing project. Your clothes will thank you!